November 17, 2008

“Ground nut” is an early term for peanuts; this soup is a delicacy in some parts of the South, particularly in Virginia.

Modern recipes nearly always call for peanut butter, which makes a much thicker soup than the original recipes (if you use peanut butter, replace the 3 cups peanuts with 2 cups of unsweetened peanut butter).
This recipe is faithful to the originals in use before peanut butter became a staple. It is based on a recipe by Rufus Estes, who wrote one of the first cookbooks published by an African American, Good Things To Eat, As Suggested By Rufus, published about 1911.

Estes was born a slave, and after emancipation became Executive Chef for the Pullman Railroad Car Company in Chicago.

Yield: 6 servings

• 3 cups unsalted peanuts
• 2 quarts water
• 2 Bay leaves
• 1 stalk celery, finely diced
• 1/4 cup sweet onion, finely diced
• 1/2 teaspoon ground mace
• 1 cup heavy cream

Soak peanuts in water for at least eight hours.

After the nuts have soaked, add bay leaves, celery, mace and onion to water.

Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer slowly for four and one half hours, stirring frequently to keep from burning.
Strain soup and rub softened peanuts through sieve or puree in food processor and return to soup mixture.

Return soup to burner and simmer to heat through. Whisk in cream to thicken, adjust seasonings and serve hot with croutons.